Banarasi weaves have always been captivating. A treat to the eyes and a pinnacle of finesse and luxury, Banarasi sarees are regal and opulent. From Tanchoi, to Kadhua there are a number of Banarsai sarees. The Kadhua Banarasi saree is a masterpiece and a true representation of intricate craftsmanship and opulent aesthetics. Hailing from the holy city of Varanasi, this style of Banarasi weaving is one of the most revered in the world of heritage weaves. The Kadhua Banarasi sarees have been popular across domestic as well as international markets because of their unparalalled beauty. Let’s delve deeper and explore all about this heritage weave.
What is Kadhua Banarasi?
Basically, the term “Kadhua” refers to a special brocade weaving technique which is used to weave Banarasi silk sarees. These sarees can only be crafted on a handloom. In this style, a separate weft thread is used to create intricate and elaborate motif designs. Usually in the Banarasi weaving process, patterns are continuously woven into the fabric but it is not so in the , Kadhua weaving. This process rather involves weaving of either individual motifs or motifs in small clusters. Let’s get into the basics.
In weaving any fabric, two sets of yarns or threads are required: the warp (Taani तानी), which runs along the length, and the weft (Baana बाना), which runs across the width. For instance, in a standard 5.5-meter-long saree with a width of 44 inches, the warp spans the entire length, while the weft interlaces across the width to form the fabric. The warp, consisting of thousands of fine yarns, is fixed on the loom and remains static, whereas the weft is passed across the width using a shuttle, interlocking with the warp to create the weave.
A brocade weave introduces an additional set of yarns, known as the supplementary weft, used to form motifs such as butis and jaals. Typically, zari yarns are used in brocade weaves, imparting a regal sheen to the fabric. However, the technique of integrating the supplementary weft determines whether a saree is woven in the Kadhuan or Fekuan (फेकुआँ) style.
What Sets Kadhua Apart
Kadhua Banarasi sarees are known for their meticulous craftsmanship, which sets them apart from other types of Banarasi sarees. Here’s how the saree is created:
In a Kadhuan weave, each motif is painstakingly woven individually rather than being created using a shuttle throw across the width, as seen in Fekuan. This results in sharper, well-defined motifs and greater exclusivity.
For instance, consider a black Kadhuan saree with eight zari butis per row. The weaving process involves multiple meticulous steps:
- The black warp is first set up on the loom.
- The jacquard mechanism is arranged to guide the weave.
- The weaver manually throws the weft shuttle for the ground fabric, separately moves the zari yarns for each buti, and creates the zari borders.
- If a buti incorporates multiple colors, such as gold and silver zari, the complexity multiplies.
Each pick (line of weft) involves numerous shuttle movements, significantly increasing the weaving time and effort. For a saree with a density of 100 picks per inch, a single meter (approximately 40 inches) requires around 44,000 shuttle movements. A full 5.5-meter saree demands over 2,42,000 hand movements—highlighting the labor-intensive nature of Kadhuan weaving.
Kadhua Banarasi Sarees- The Evergreen Weave!
Kadhua Banarasi sarees have remained a symbol of tradition, luxury, and grace for centuries. Here are some reasons why these sarees are so timeless:
- Cultural Significance: The Kadhua Banarasi sarees are a legacy. These sarees are a must-have for pooja and wedding celebrations. Traditional and sustainable, these sarees are cherished family heirlooms.
- Exquisite Beauty: The intricate motifs and delicate zari work give Kadhua Banarasi sarees a level of sophistication that few other sarees can match. The patterns are not only beautiful but also tell a story, representing the rich cultural heritage of Varanasi.
- Versatility: While traditionally worn during weddings and festivals, Kadhua Banarasi sarees have evolved to suit modern fashion trends. Many contemporary designers incorporate Kadhua weaving into fusion wear, making the saree appropriate for various occasions.
- Rich Craftsmanship: The skill involved in crafting a Kadhua Banarasi saree ensures that each piece is unique. The labor-intensive process gives the saree its unmatched quality, making it a prized possession for those who wear it.
Modern Adaptations
Modern designers have given these weaves a modern style twist by finding ways to incorporate them into contemporary fashion. Women style these sarees with modern blouses, crop tops, statement jewellery, and modern accessories. It makes for a bold fashion statement. It’s an era of tradition meets contemporary styling.
Not just silk, Kadhua Banarasi sarees are also available in lighter fabrics like georgette and chiffon, making them more versatile for various occasions. Whether you wear them to a wedding, a festive gathering, or a formal event, these sarees have redefined contemporary saree styling with the most a traditional weave styled with the boldest fashion experiments! Tradition preserved cautiously!
Why Are Kadhuan Sarees Pricier?
The premium pricing of Kadhuan sarees is attributed to their time-consuming process and superior craftsmanship. Unlike machine-woven sarees or even handwoven cutwork designs, a Kadhuan weave cannot be mass-produced. The meticulous weaving of each motif ensures:
- Greater exclusivity, as no two sarees are identical.
- The use of pure silk or cotton, ensuring authenticity.
- A more refined, intricate appearance compared to cutwork sarees.
- Enhanced comfort due to the high thread count and precise weaving.
Styling a Kadhua Banarasi
Let’s now style your Kadhua Banarasis,
- Traditional Bridal Look: Go for a rich red or maroon Kadhua saree with heavy gold jewellery, a matha patti, and chunky bangles. You can also add an ethnic fabric belt with embroidery and embellishments or go for a gold metal belt with temple designs. Temple jewellery looks the best. Regal and luxurious you’ll look no less than a goddess.
- Elegant Party Look: For a party go for a pastel georgette Kadhua saree with statement earrings, bangles or bracelets and minimalistic makeup.
- Indo-Western Fusion: Belt it up and go for a crop top instead of a blouse. You can try a cape blouse for a dramatic look.
Experiment with drape styles to find your perfect look.
Care Tips
Since the Kadhua Banarasi sarees are quite delicate, you need to handle them with care and show extra love to your precious weaves. Here are some care tips:
- Dry Clean Only: Always dry clean your Kadhua Banarasi sarees. The zari is delicate and washing at home will ruin the zari threads making them dull.
- Store Carefully: Always store your saree in a cool and dry place. It is best to store your sarees in a cotton cloth or a muslin saree bag in order to protect the saree from dust, moisture and sunlight.
- Handle with Care: Avoid pulling or tugging the saree, as this will damage the fabric threads.
- Avoid Perfumes and Sprays: Perfumes and sprays when sprayed directly can tarnish the zari threads. Avoid spraying chemicals directly on the saree.
Identifying an Authentic Kadhuan Saree
To verify whether a saree is genuinely Kadhuan, examine the reverse side of the motifs. In a Kadhuan weave, the yarn manually turns at the motif’s edge rather than being cut, giving it a seamless finish. However, certain exceptions exist, and some Kadhuan weaves may have minor cuts. When motifs are closely spaced, a saree can appear cut-less without using the Kadhuan technique.
To ensure authenticity, always purchase from reputable sources.
Wrapping Up!
One of the best Banarasis, the Kadhua saree showcases intricate craftsmanship. Styled appropriately you can flaunt the weave almost anywhere. From weddings to festive occasions, this one makes for a perfect drape. Drape it, style it, flaunt it. Hey Diva! we are sure you’ll steal the show.
