One of the most intricate and luxurious fabric-making techniques, the Brocade weave shouts of grandeur, royalty, glory, luxury and pride. Often pictured as a bridal saree adornment, brocade designs are masterpieces of extraordinary craftsmanship. If you too are mesmerised by the weave and want to own this piece of exclusive royalty, you need to understand the weave first. Trust us it helps a lot in making an authentic purchase and when you style the weave your heart will be brimming with pride.
We’ll share the technique, types, differences between handloom and power-loom brocade, and tips on identifying authentic brocade fabrics. Let’s get started!
What Exactly Is Brocade Weaving?
Brocade weaving is a technique where additional weft threads are inserted into the fabric to create motifs. These extra threads float on the surface. As a result, he fabric gets a raised, embossed effect.
In embroidery, designs are stitched onto the fabric after the weaving process, but in brocade the craftsman weaves patterns directly into the fabric itself. Which is why brocade sarees are far more durable.
The beautiful rich patterns, luxurious textures, and exquisite designs, made with silk and zari (gold or silver threads) add to the exclusiveness and opulence of the weave. It’s high on demand these days.
How Does Brocade Weaving Work?
Let’s get into the basics of Brocade weaving and for that let’s understand the fabric weaving process first.
- Warp Threads – These are threads running along the length of the fabric on a loom.
- Weft Threads – These threads run across the width of the fabric.
In brocade weaving, an extra weft is added in areas where patterns and motifs are to be created. This extra weft is independent of the base fabric, which means that the design can even be removed without damaging the structure of the cloth.
It is very different from Tanchoi or Jamawar weaving, where artisans create the motifs using the primary weft, and hence they are inseparable from the ground fabric. That is, if you remove the motif the structure of the fabric will get ruined.
Types of Brocade Weaving
Brocades can be classified into two main categories based on how the extra weft is used:
1. Continuous Brocade or Fekuan Brocade
- In this, the extra weft runs across the entire width of the fabric.
- If motifs appear in only a small area, there will be loose threads at the back.
- Artisans often clip off these loose threads in a technique called cutwork (Katruan brocade).
2. Discontinuous Brocade Or Kadhua Brocade
- Here, artisans weave each motif separately.
- So, there are no loose threads at the back.
- This technique is highly prized as it requires a lot of time and skill.
Among both, Kadhua brocade weaving is the most exclusive and labour-intensive weave.
Handloom vs. Powerloom Brocade Weaving
With advancements in textile technology, brocade weaving is now done on both handlooms and powerlooms. But there are some key differences:
| Feature | Handloom Brocade | Powerloom Brocade |
|---|---|---|
| Weaving Method | Skilled artisans manually create the weave | Mechanized process using programmed machines |
| Time Taken | Takes weeks or months to weave one saree | Takes a couple of hours |
| Uniqueness | No two pieces are identical | Mass-produced, identical designs |
| Cost | More expensive due to craftsmanship | Affordable but lacks exclusivity |
Handloom brocade are heritage pieces that retain the artistry of the weaver, whereas powerloom brocades are mass-produced to reduce costs and make the weave affordable.
Zari in Brocade Weaving
Thinking of brocade weaving, a picture of shimmering bridal sarees with heavy zari work comes to the mind. But brocade weaving actually is a technique which can be done even without zari.
- Zari Brocade – In this motifs are done using gold and silver threads.
- Silk Brocade – Colorful silk threads instead of metallic ones are used to create vibrant motifs.
- Cotton/Linen Brocade – Natural fibres are used in this. It isn’t very royal but makes for casual, formal and everyday wear.
While zari brocades are highly sought-after, non-zari brocades are also elegant and quite practical for daily wear.
How to Distinguish Authentic Brocade Fabric from Fakes
With markets flooding with power-loom fabrics due to the high demand of brocade sarees sellers these days are taking advantage. They are falsely selling power-looms as handloom brocades. Here are some tips to identify authentic brocade weaving:
1. Check the Reverse Side
- In handwoven brocade, the backside will have small, neat knots from the extra weft.
- In powerloom brocade, the reverse side will be smooth and will have uniform loose threads and no distinct weaving marks.
2. Feel the Fabric
- Handwoven brocade feels heavier and has a rich delicate texture.
- Powerloom brocade is quite lightweight. It doesn’t have a rich texture.
3. Look at the Motifs
- Kadhua brocade motifs are sharper and well-defined.
- Fekuan brocade may have floating threads.
4. Burn Test (For Pure Silk)
- Pure silk fabric when burnt smells of burnt hair.
- Fake silk smells of plastic.
Shopping Tips for Brocade Sarees
If you’re planning to buy a brocade saree, keep these tips in mind:
- Always Purchase from Trusted Sellers – Make your purchase from reputed stores that specialise in handloom fabrics.
- Check for GI Tag – Authentic Banarasi brocades often have a Geographical Indication (GI) tag.
- Understand the Weave You Are Buying – Always ask questions. Ask if it’s Kadhua or Fekuan brocade.
- Compare Prices – Handwoven brocades are usually costlier than their powerloom counterparts. If the price seems too good to be true, it probably is a fake.
How to Style Your Brocade Sarees
Brocade sarees are evergreen. They grand, luxurious and absolutely royal. A weave this exotic doesn’t just enhance your looks but also glorifies it. Choose a weave according to the occasion, style it appropriately and you’ll dazzle like a queen. Here are some basic styling tips.
- Jewellery – Brocade weaves look best with tradition gold and kundan jewellery. Heavy or minimal, depend on your preference and the occasion you are styling for.
- Blouse – Choose a plain silk blouse to let the saree shine. You can experiment with sleeve and neck designs. Go for crop tops for a modern look. The catch is to match the top’s fabric with your saree.
- Draping – The classic Nivi drape and the very traditional seedha pallu are always the best bets. Whenever in doubt go for these drape styles, they always work. But you can experiment with contemporary drape styles like the mermaid drape. You can also style with a belt for a bold look.
- Accessories – Carry a potli bag or an embroidered clutch to finish your look.
Whether worn at weddings, festivals, or celebrations, a brocade saree never fails to make a statement.
Care Tips for Brocade Weaving Fabrics
Brocade sarees are delicate as they use fine threads which are quite sensitive. Brocade weaves require special care and attention. Some important tips,
- Dry Clean Only – Always dry-clean your weaves as harsh detergents can damage the weave.
- Store in a Cotton Bag – Avoid plastic covers, as they trap moisture. Always use cotton or muslin bags to protect your brocade sarees from dust and moisture.
- Don’t Spray Perfume Directly – Spraying perfume directly on the fabric can damage the zari work.
- Avoid Direct Sunlight – Prolonged exposure can fade the colours of your Brocade sarees.
Proper care can ensure your brocade sarees last for generations.
The Timeless Brocade Sarees- An Evergreen Heritage!
Brocade isn’t just a weaving technique, it’s luxury, royalty and grandeur woven into fabric. A reflection of extraordinary craftsmanship, it’s a heritage craft cherished for centuries. From the luxurious Kadhua brocades to the shimmering zari-adorned fabrics, brocade sarees are rich and one-of-kind weave. When buying a brocade saree, always look for authentic craftsmanship, and cherish it as a piece of living history.
